“The most beautiful place I have ever laid eyes on is Kashmir. I’ve been there thrice for the shooting of my film “Raazi,” and I can’t get enough of Dal Lake…every sunset on it is like a new canvas,” says celebrated film director Meghna Gulzar, whose films Talvar, Raazi and Sam Bahadur have established her as one of Bollywood’s most distinctive voices..
She has travelled to South Africa — “incredible, with every kind of landscape from mountains to ocean” — and still, Kashmir wins without contest. “It is Kashmir that speaks to me,” she says simply.
Having framed Kashmir’s landscapes through a professional lens, obsessively and repeatedly, Gulzar speaks with the authority of someone who has looked hard. When she calls a place beautiful, you go.
Here is everything you need to experience Kashmir the way she does.
Know Before You Go
Dal Lake is home to more than 1,000 houseboats, most of them moored along its edges — a floating village that has existed for centuries. As the sun drops lower on the horizon, it casts silhouettes of chinar trees, wooden houseboats and old pavilions across the water. The reflections turn the lake into a mirror of fire and gold. This is what Gulzar means by a new canvas every sunset. It will stop you in your tracks.
The shikara ride at dusk is non-negotiable.
THE BOTANICAL GARDEN MEGHNA GULZAR LOVES
Meghna Gulzar fell in love with Achabal Bagh, a garden approximately 58 kilometres south of Srinagar in the town of Achabal, Anantnag district — with Pahalgam just a short drive away, making it a natural day-trip combination.
Emperor Jahangir built Achabal Bagh in the 17th century as his personal pleasure garden. Its Mughal-style architecture — terraced lawns, stone pavilions, ornamental fountains and cascading water channels fed by a natural spring — has an unhurried grandeur that feels untouched by time. Visit in spring (April–May) when the gardens are in bloom for the full sensory experience.
Travel Secrets Tip: Combine Achabal Bagh with the Pahalgam valley on the same day. The Lidder River runs through Pahalgam, and the drive between the two is quietly spectacular.
On your drive from Srinagar to Gulmarg, you can take a short detour to visit the stunning Alpather Lake. Cradled among snow-covered peaks and meadows, it is an ethereal beauty!
Cruising through the Dal Lake on a houseboat has to be the most beautiful experience in Kashmir by far. Here’s all that you need to know before going on that shikara ride!
WHERE TO STAY IN SRINAGAR
Sleeping on the lake is the only way to do Dal Lake properly. A heritage houseboat places you inside the scene Meghna Gulzar describes — not watching it from a distance.
CHICAGO GROUP OF HOUSEBOATS Boulevard Road, Dal Lake
Chicago Group of Houseboats is one of Dal Lake’s most established names — a legacy property where hand-carved walnut interiors, embroidered textiles and warm Kashmiri hospitality come together on the water. Wake to mountain reflections, sip kahwa on your private deck, and experience the floating-palace tradition that has made Dal Lake legendary. A genuine, heritage houseboat stay in the heart of Srinagar.
Perfect for: Couples, families, first-time Kashmir visitors who want the full floating-palace experience.
📍 Book CHICAGO GROUP OF HOUSEBOATS on Booking.com
SAFFRON STAYS KINGORI HOUSEBOAT Ghat 15, Nehru Park, Dal Lake, Srinagar
Tucked into a quiet corner of Dal Lake beside the lotus gardens — accessible only by shikara, which tells you everything about the pace of life here — Kingori is SaffronStays’ flagship Kashmir property, and it is genuinely special. The private deck looks out over open water and reed beds; the shikara high tea, served as the afternoon light softens, is one of those experiences you will describe to people for years. Interiors are traditionally Kashmiri: warm wood, embroidered textiles, careful detail. The hosts cook home-style meals and look after guests with the kind of unhurried attention that feels increasingly rare. One guest on their tenth visit to Kashmir said they came here specifically to do nothing — and that it felt like home. That says it all.
Perfect for: Couples, solo travellers, and anyone who wants to experience Dal Lake away from the boulevard bustle.
📍 Book SaffronStays Kingori on Booking.com
🏡 MOUSTACHE HOUSEBOAT SRINAGAR Ghat 17, Nehru Park, Dal Lake, Srinagar
Part of the beloved Moustache Hostels family — one of India’s most trusted names in experiential travel — this houseboat on Dal Lake brings that same spirit of warm, genuine hospitality to Kashmir’s most iconic setting. The houseboat is spotlessly maintained with traditional Kashmiri charm intact, the views across the lake and mountains are exactly what you came for, and the staff are the kind of hosts who make guests feel they have been looked after by friends rather than strangers. Reviews speak of a week-long stay that felt far too short, and of returning. The Moustache name is a quality signal for independent travellers who know their India well.
Perfect for: Independent travellers, couples, and anyone who values character and genuine hospitality over corporate gloss.
📍 Book Moustache Houseboat on Booking.com
THE GULMARG EXPERIENCE
The road from Srinagar to Gulmarg in winter is one of those journeys that renders conversation unnecessary. Snow-laden pine and deodar trees line the winding ascent; the air sharpens and chills; the world turns white and still. Meghna Gulzar took her son there to see snow — “just the drive up is magical,” she says. “An ethereal setting.”
WHERE TO STAY IN GULMARG
🏔️ THE KHYBER HIMALAYAN RESORT & SPA ⭐ 4.6/5 (5,270 reviews) Hotel Khyber Road, Gulmarg
Kashmir’s most celebrated luxury resort — set against the Pir Panjal range with direct access to the Gulmarg Gondola, one of the world’s highest cable cars. The Khyber offers a heated indoor pool (a genuine luxury at this altitude), a full spa, multiple restaurants, and rooms designed to make the most of the mountain views. Reviewers praise the warm Kashmiri hospitality and the exceptional quality of the food. The Italian restaurant, Brava, receives special mention.
Perfect for: Luxury travellers, honeymoon couples, families with children who want the snow experience with every comfort intact.
📍 Book The Khyber Himalayan Resort on Booking.com
🏔️ THE VINTAGE GULMARG Circular Road, Gulmarg
An excellent mid-range option with a loyal following. Spacious rooms, panoramic mountain views, outstanding breakfast, and a level of service that guests consistently call “classy” and “attentive.” Well-located for skiing, the gondola, and Gulmarg’s meadows. If The Khyber is beyond your budget, The Vintage will not disappoint.
Perfect for: Mid-range travellers, families, ski season visitors.
📍 Book The Vintage Gulmarg on Booking.com
LOCAL TOURS & THINGS TO DO
In and Around Srinagar
🛶 Shikara Ride at Dusk on Dal Lake — The quintessential Kashmir experience. Book a private shikara for sunset and watch the lake transform. Budget approximately ₹500–1,500 for a one-hour ride; negotiate directly at the ghats or book through your houseboat.
🌸 Mughal Gardens Circuit — Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi are within easy reach of Srinagar and can be covered in a single morning. Nishat Bagh, terraced dramatically above Dal Lake, is the most photographed.
🕌 Old City Walk, Srinagar — The old city is a warren of wooden mosques, traditional khatamband ceilings, papier-mâché artisans and spice lanes. Hire a local guide for context; the stories embedded in these streets are extraordinary.
🧣 Cashmere Shopping — Srinagar is where you buy the real thing. Look for pashmina (insist on a GI-tagged certificate), sozni-embroidered shawls, hand-knotted carpets and walnut-wood carvings. The Maharaj Gunj market in the old city is a good starting point.
📍 Book a guided Srinagar heritage walk
In Gulmarg
🚡 Gulmarg Gondola — One of the world’s highest cable cars, running to Apharwat Peak at 4,200 metres. The views of the Himalayan range from Phase 2 are staggering, winter or summer.
⛷️ Skiing & Snow Activities — Gulmarg has emerged as one of Asia’s premier ski destinations, with reliable snowfall from December through March. Equipment hire and instructors are readily available. Even non-skiers can enjoy snowboarding, snow tubing and horse rides through the meadows.
🥾 Alpather Lake Trek — A moderately easy trek (or drive-and-short-walk) from Gulmarg, rewarded with a pristine glacial lake ringed by snow peaks. Best attempted May through October.
Get the Full Experience
🌿 Discover the beauty of the Kashmir Valley on a 7-day tour to Srinagar, Pahalgam, and Gulmarg that includes transfers, comfortable accommodation, and a delicious breakfast in the morning.
📍 Book a private Srinagar–Pahalgam day tour
TRAVEL SECRETS ESSENTIALS
When to Go
- Spring (April–June): Tulips, blossoms, blue skies — Dal Lake at its most photogenic.
- Summer (July–August): Cool respite from the plains heat; ideal for trekking.
- Autumn (September–October): Chinar trees turn gold and red — Kashmir’s most dramatic season.
- Winter (December–February): Gulmarg in snow, empty houseboats at negotiated rates, an ethereal stillness.
Getting There Direct flights to Srinagar operate year-round from Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru and several other cities. (insert TravelPayouts flight affiliate link — Aviasales/Jetradar)
Getting Around Pre-book a private cab for the Srinagar–Gulmarg–Pahalgam circuit. Rates are negotiable for multi-day packages and your houseboat can usually arrange a reliable driver.
HAVE YOU BEEN TO KASHMIR?
Tell us your favourite moment in the comments below. And if you’re planning your first visit, drop us a message — we’ll point you in the right direction.
Featured video courtesy : Traveling Eyesight
